Iceland’s Silver Circle: The Golden Circle Alternative
There’s an alternative to the Golden Circle that allows you to keep the drama and scale but skip the tourist convoys and is richer in storytelling and solitude? It’s called the Silver Circle.
Most travellers coming to Iceland have heard of the Golden Circle or at least it’s itinerary; Gullfoss, Geysir and Þingvellir national park. It’s the most popular tourist route in Iceland outside of Reykjavík.
The Silver Circle route isn’t exactly a secret, but it sure feels like one. And it leads you through raw landscapes, the birthplace of the sagas and geothermal experiences.
Shortcuts:
- Silver Circle vs Golden Circle: Comparing the routes
- Where is the Silver Circle in Iceland?
- Map of the Silver Circle in Iceland
- Where to stop on The Silver Circle
- Hvammsvík Hot Springs: The perfect Base Camp for the Silver Circle
- Borgarnes: The Warm-Up
- Reykholt: A Poet, a Pool, and a Whole Lot of History
- Hraunfossar & Barnafoss: Waterfalls with Personality
- Húsafell: Nature, Art, and Basecamp Vibes
- Going Underground: Víðgelmir Lava Cave
- Langjökull: Into the White
- Feeling Ambitious? Take a Hike to Glymur
- The Beached Whalers of Hvalfjörður
- Summary
- FAQ: Silver Circle Travel Essentials
Silver Circle vs Golden Circle: Comparing the routes
The Golden Circle includes Iceland’s blockbuster sights – geysers, waterfalls and busloads of tourists. The Silver Circle has more depth, winding through lava fields, natural hot springs, and sagas.
This isn’t a competition. But if you have a limited time and have to choose, it helps to know what sets these two Icelandic loops apart.
- Golden Circle: It has all the known bucket list items
- Silver Circle: It has similar stopping points: Blowing Geysers, Iconic Waterfalls and Historic Viking era places.
- Old Golden is better known so it has bigger crowds while the Silver boy is a road less travelled for most tourists
- Thus, you will find more tours that go the Golden Circle, many with a unique twist
Where is the Silver Circle in Iceland?
The Silver Circle swings through the Borgarfjörður region of West Iceland.
Most people start the loop from Hvalfjörður to Borgarnes —a cozy, quiet town about 75 minutes north of Reykjavík. From there, the road stretches inland through wide valleys, lava fields, and steam-flecked hills before looping back through the striking Hvalfjörður fjord.
It’s about 220 kilometers in total, starting at Hvammsvík in the Whale fjord and ending the route there, depending on how many detours you take. And you’ll want to take a few. The good kind.
Map of the Silver Circle in Iceland
The Silver Circle is about 220 km long, by going from Hvammsvík Hot Nature Resort, to Borgarnes and up Borgarfjörður and ending in Hvalfjörður at Hvammsvík Hot Springs. You can open the map in Google Maps.
Where to stop on The Silver Circle
Hvammsvík Hot Springs: The perfect Base Camp for the Silver Circle
Hvammsvík is the perfect starting point from base camp, if you opt for the boutique style accommodation that is offered. The Hot Springs at Hvammsvík are the classic way to end the day while relaxing and taking in the amazing fjord views.
This place blends geothermal warmth with saltwater freshness—eight pools scattered by the shoreline, ranging from bathwater-comfy to “that’ll wake you up.” The views? You’re basically floating in a fjord, mountains all around, seabirds wheeling overhead.
There’s a steam room. A bar you can swim to. And occasionally, locals do ocean swimming like they’re training for Viking Iron Man.
Borgarnes: The Warm-Up
Now, you might be tempted to breeze through Borgarnes. Don’t. There’s soul here.
The town hosts the Settlement Center, which sounds academic, but it’s surprisingly gripping. It tells the story of Iceland’s earliest settlers and deep-dives (not literally) into the life of Egill Skallagrímsson—a Viking warrior-poet with serious rage issues and even more serious verses. If you’re into sagas, this place is gold.
Grab a coffee at one of the harbor cafés. Maybe a cinnamon bun too. You’ll need the sugar.
Reykholt: A Poet, a Pool, and a Whole Lot of History
A short drive inland takes you to Reykholt, which may look small but punches way above its weight.
This is where Snorri Sturluson lived—the 13th-century writer who basically wrote Norse mythology and inspired artists from Wagner to Tolkien to Stan Lee. Without Snorri, there’s a good chance we’d know far less about Thor and Odin and didn’t have The Lord of The Rings. There’s a pool here (Snorralaug), a modest stone circle filled with warm water where Snorri bathed and plotted epic tales. That pool alone has more literary relevance than most college syllabi.
The church and Snorrastofa cultural center offer a peaceful stop, and if you catch the right time of day, the light in this valley is… eerie, in the best way.
Hraunfossar & Barnafoss: Waterfalls with Personality
Next up, a duo of waterfalls that couldn’t be more different.
Hraunfossar is graceful, almost ghostly—hundreds of tiny streams sneaking out from beneath a lava field. No thundering drop, just a slow, endless veil of water sliding over black rock. A few steps away? Barnafoss. Angry, churning, blue. The kind of waterfall that looks like it just got bad news.
Legend has it two children died here crossing a natural stone bridge that collapsed afterward. Iceland doesn’t do Disney endings.
Húsafell: Nature, Art and Basecamp Vibes
Húsafell is where things start to feel both grounded and vast. It’s nestled in a sheltered woodland (rare for Iceland), and there’s a blend of local life, artistic flair, and serious access to the wilds.
Need a snack or a swim? The geothermal pools here are family-friendly but still scenic. Want to check out some Icelandic art? Look for works by Páll Guðmundsson, the stone harp guy. Yes, stone harp. He literally makes instruments from rocks.
If you’re feeling bold, this is also the jumping-off point for two wild experiences: the Víðgelmir lava cave and Langjökull glacier.
Going Underground: Víðgelmir Lava Cave
Underneath the Hallmundarhraun lava field lies one of Iceland’s biggest lava tubes.
Víðgelmir is massive, stretching over a mile, with ice sculptures in winter and colorful mineral walls that look hand-painted.
You can only explore it with a guide—and honestly, you wouldn’t want to go down there solo. Helmets and headlamps are handed out; jokes about being eaten by trolls are optional but encouraged.
It’s damp, dark, and weirdly beautiful.
Langjökull: Into the White
Let me say it straight: Langjökull glacier is huge. It’s Iceland’s second-largest glacier and home to the most surreal tourist experiences in the world: a man made tunnel carved deep into the ice.
“Into the Glacier” sounds like a Jules Verne novel, and to be fair, it kind of feels like one. You are shuttled up the glacier in a giant truck, then walk through the blue-lit corridors of ancient ice.
It’s curated but not crowded. Polished without being posh. One of those places where time seems to give up and sit down beside you.
Feeling Ambitious? Take a Hike to Glymur
Got energy to spare? Glymur waterfall is on your way back—Iceland’s second-tallest at 198 meters. The Glymur Waterfall Hike takes a few hours there and back, with river crossings and a cave crawl (no joke), but the payoff is legit.
Bring dry socks. Trust me.
The Beached Whalers of Hvalfjörður
At the shores of fjord Hvalfjörður, you’ll spot rusting old whaling ships haunting remnants of Iceland’s once-bustling whaling industry. There are no signs or ticket booths. Just sitting there, beached and bleached by salt and time, their hulls creaking with stories most tourists never hear.
There’s something oddly poetic about it. The fjord’s beauty—so pristine and silent—makes these relics feel like ghost ships parked in the past. You won’t spend hours here, but it’s a photo stop that lingers longer than expected.
Just remember to tread gently—this isn’t a museum, it’s memory made metal.
A Few Friendly Tips Before You take the Silver Circle Route
- Timing: Summer gives you longer days and easier driving. Winter adds a moody edge but check road conditions religiously.
- Vehicle: You don’t need a 4×4, but it helps if you’re chasing caves or driving outside the loop.
- Food: Pack snacks. Stops are sparse once you’re deep into the circle.
- Packing: Layers. Rain gear. Swimsuit. Headlamp if you’re caving. And a charger — your phone will be working overtime.
Summary
The Silver Circle isn’t Iceland’s loudest route, but it might just be its most soulful. Winding through the west’s lava fields, waterfall-laced valleys, and centuries-old saga sites, it offers something deeper than just pretty views.
You get a sense that you’ve wandered into a version of Iceland that tourists haven’t mapped yet. It’s a history lesson, hot soak and a hike—you’re never quite sure what’s around the bend.
Compared to the flashier Golden Circle, the Silver Circle feels like a slower, richer burn Whether you’re walking through a glacier, crawling into a lava cave, or just watching steam curl off a mountainside pool, this route lingers in your mind long after the drive’s over.
FAQ: Silver Circle Travel Essentials
Q: How long does it take to drive the Silver Circle?
A: You can do it in a day (5–7 hours with quick stops), but give yourself a full day or more to explore at a relaxed pace. Stay overnight at Hvammsvík Nature Resort if you can.
Q: Is the Silver Circle good for kids?
A: Absolutely. Waterfalls, easy hikes, lava caves (with guides), and geothermal pools like Hvammsvík make it great for families.
Q: Do I need a tour or can I self-drive?
A: You can definitely self-drive. Roads are paved or well-maintained gravel. You can also book tours for the Silver Circle. Some activities (like Víðgelmir or Into the Glacier) do require guided tours, though.
Q: What’s the best time of year to do the Silver Circle Route?
A: Summer (June through August) offers green valleys, long days, and easy driving. The autumn offers autumn colours and foraging. Winter adds snowy drama, fewer crowds, and the chance to see the northern lights. Be mindful of road conditions.
Q: Are there gas stations along the route?
A: Yes, but not many. Fill up in Borgarnes or Húsafell just to be safe.
Q: Can I do both the Silver Circle and Golden Circle in one trip?
A: Yes! Many visitors do Golden first, then hit Silver for a deeper, more low-key vibe. There are only a 20-minute drive from Thingvellir National Park to Hvammsvík where your Silver Circle adventure begins.
Q: What should I pack for the Silver Circle?
A: Bring layers, waterproofs, hiking boots, swimsuit, camera, snacks, and curiosity. Maybe a saga or two for the car ride.