The Perfect Self-Drive Day Trip From Reykjavík
Short and easy waterfront trails in Hvalfjörður fjord.
If you’re tired from all the hikes you’ve been doing close to Reykjavik, take a short drive to Hvalfjörður (Whale Fjord) and get two short and easy nature trails for the price of one. No one ever said that walking in Icelandic nature had to be difficult and up-hill all the time! In Whale Fjord there are sandbanks (or mini-peninsulas) and small inlets a-plenty and they are really fun to explore. Hvammsvik (literally Hvammur’s inlet) with its hot springs and cool accommodations is a favorite for sure but we might not be impartial.
Before you visit the Hvammsvik Hot Springs you should really explore the Whale Fjord and the easiest and most feet-friendly way to do that is to rent a car and stop at select places for a light stroll. Bear with us – this article runs a little long but there’s no reason you should. Pick the places you’d most like to visit and just go there. The Hvammsvik Hot Springs will be waiting when you’re finished.
First stop – Hvalfjarðareyri
Drive out of Reykjavik onto Route 1 heading north to Borgarnes. Shortly before you reach the Whale Fjord tunnel take the exit on your right leading into Whale Fjord (Route 47).
You will drive through a pass between two mountains, keep driving along the fjord until you see a sandbank or small peninsula appear (ca. 8 km). This is Hvalfjarðareyri (Whale Fjord Sandbank). Shortly before you reach it you will see a small gravel road leading down to it. If your car is fit for gravel roads you can shorten your walk somewhat, if not there is a small parking space shortly up ahead on your left.
The trail from both parking spaces is very easy and requires no special equipment. However, like with any trails or nature walks in Iceland, be sure to check the weather forecast before you head out there and bring sensible clothing. Once you’ve reached the shoreline you can walk along it or go into the reeds further inland, search for pretty rocks, enjoy the seaside view and just nature in general. At the end of the sandbank there is a tiny orange lighthouse. This will not be one of the most impressive lighthouses you might come across in Iceland but definitely one of the cutest. It will surely brighten up any picture taken on the spot.
This little sandbank is one of the best places to find colorful types of zeolites. If you’re lucky you will also find the rare and elusive baggalutur. This round stone, or even two or three round stones stuck together, is formed inside rhyolite when lava is forming into solid rock. Hvalfjarðareyri sandbank is one of the best places to find them in Iceland.
Hvalfjarðareyri is a haven for bird enthusiasts and is recognized as IBA or Important Bird Area by Birdlife International. During certain times of year, the sandbank is teeming with thousands of birds. Remember that this place is theirs and only yours to explore briefly.
Short stop at Steðji, The Elven Anvil Rock
When you’re done exploring head back to your car and drive onwards into the fjord. Keep your eyes peeled for the black houses of Hvammsvík and the steam rising from the Hvammsvik Hot Springs on your left hand. We’re not stopping there just yet but this is the best road marker as very soon after you pass the Hvammsvik sign you will see a quick turn to the right with a sign that says Steðji. Now, again, if you do not have a car fit for a gravel road, you should park here. It’s just a short walk up a small hill to get there but you will be rewarded.
Up on the hill, hidden from view from the general traffic, is Steðji or Anvil Rock. This very unusual rock stands alone, rising ca. 3 meters high, and kind of reminds you of stemmed glassware or a goblet. For this reason, it has also been nicknamed (and this is our own personal translation) Cheers Rock or in Icelandic: Staupasteinn. But wait, there’s more – it has even more nicknames, such as Prestur (Preacher) and The Old Man in Skeiðhóll Hill.
Legends say that a hermit, one of the hidden people who populate Whale Fjord, lives in the rock. Some say his name is Staupa-Steinn, same as one of the rock’s names. Elves and hidden people usually live in groups or even whole cities and tales of hermits of this kind are pretty uncommon.
This particular hermit is said to love visitors, especially children with balls but be careful … There are plenty of tales of elves and hidden people getting back at humans that disrespect their homes with noise, pollution, or careless behavior. Also, this rock is a protected natural monument so there is no climbing on it or disturbing it or the area around it, even if you don’t believe the folklore.
The hermit that lives in Steðji is so well known that when the Whale Fjord Tunnel was officially opened, he was asked (through a medium of course) to become the protector of the tunnel. According to the medium the hermit was very flattered and agreed.
The best part about this stop is not just the curious rock and its inhabitant but also the great view over the Whale Fjord, particularly Hvammsvik.
A photo stop at the White Peninsula
Hvítanes – here translated as White Peninsula – is our next stop and it’s not far away. From the Steðji Rock parking space it is just a kilometer or two further into the fjord before you see a road turning to your left. The road will take almost to the center of the small Hvítanes Peninsula. This is the place to get your camera out for a picturesque stroll.
At Hvítanes Peninsula you can see a tiny bit of the Whale Fjord WWII history. You will recognize some bunkers and buildings as well as a rusty pier built by the British and American armies around the 1940s. Hvítanes Peninsula was a literal village during WWII, but little remains of the buildings except ruins. However, those look great in pictures alongside the picturesque mountains and sea all around.
A stroll around Hvítanes Peninsula can take as long or as short as you’d like. We completely understand if you lose track of time here. We’ve done it too!
One last hike at Thyrill Peninsula
When you finish taking in the scenes at the Hvítanes Peninsula, take your car onwards to the bottom of the fjord. If you’re looking for more of a challenge by now you might stop around there to do the Glymur Waterfall hike. If you don’t have the time, keep on driving and save that for a later date.
Carry on driving out of the fjord on the northern side, until you’re almost directly under Mt Thyrill. Now, you might already know about the Mt Thyrill hike. The Thyrilsnes Peninsula is the large peninsula right below it.
This is of course a much easier hike and gives you a spectacular view, both over the Whale Fjord and back at the glorious Mt Thyrill.
You will see a road leading down to the right onto the peninsula. Drive a short way and you’ll find a parking space; this is where your hiking begins. Be mindful that the peninsula is the home of eiders and their nests and should not be visited from mid-May until July 20th to protect their nesting grounds.
Following the path is easy and besides the natural view you will find relics from WWII from the British and US armies that made the fjord their base for a while and called it the “Crow’s Nest”. Remember to look back from time to time to enjoy Mt. Thyrill too, and keep your eyes peeled for seals along the shore.
Once you’ve reached the end of the peninsula you can either walk the same way back or take an easy hike up to Harðarhæð (Hill of Hörður). This is the tallest part of Thyrilsnes Peninsula and from there you follow a trail back to your car.
A grand finale at Hvammsvik Hot Springs
If you’ve followed our guide to easy waterfront trails in Whale Fjord we’re betting you’ve had a nice time. It’s time for a grand finish at the Hvammsvik Hot Springs. You can either finish the fjord and take the Whale Fjord Tunnel back to come a full circle. But the shortest way, of course, is to simply head back the way you came.
Finally, whether you’ll do it under the midnight sun, or a starry sky and, hopefully, some Northern lights, this is where you get to relax after a great day filled with easy hiking, history, adventures and a whole lot of Icelandic nature.